Disclaimer:
This is an edited version of my diary from November 2000. Some information contained may be incorrect, and opinions I expressed then are not the opinions of Aaron Rowe in 2006. I have posted it purely for the Novelty value.Monday 20th November 2000The Bus TripI woke up at 3am and grabbed everything I needed and left to catch the bus at Newport Bus station that was arriving at 04:05. Mum gave me a lift in and waved goodbye and stuff.
The Bus journey went well, I got a cup of coffee and relaxed, we hit a 06:30 traffic Jam on our way to the airports (first the Heathrow terminals then the Gatwick terminals, mine was the last one at Gatwick North.)
The AeroplaneI arrived at Gatwick at about 8:15 and bought my ticket. I'd booked on the internet but wasn't allowed to pay by credit card due to the fact that I was going to Nigeria and they weren't prepared to take the risk of fraud. My flight was BA2075 a British Airways Boeing 747-400, and I had a seat in the middle isle in the economy section (or "world traveller class" as BA calls it.)
After we had taken off and were at cruise altitude (33,000 feet or about 10 Km) the stewardess came around offering drinks. I took the red wine and was surprised when two small bottles of wine were placed on my tray. When I had finished these I was feeling pretty good as you can imagine and the stewardess came around to offer me wine to have with my meal. WOO-HOO!, Only one bottle this time though. For lunch I had a choice of Chicken Tikka Massala or Braised Lamb. Deciding that the chicken would be the most popular and therefore probably made with the cheapest bits, I decided to go for the lamb. I was taken aback when I tasted it and it actually had flavour! And it was really good! there was a starter of prawn cocktail which was a bit chewy, probably because they had over-cooked the prawns to avoid any nasty illnesses on board. Pudding was rhubarb crumble with custard, in the same way as Mr Kipling puts custard in his apple pies. Oh and there was a funsize crunchie bar in there too. after the stewardesses had cleared our things they came around offering more wine, but instead I had a cup of coffee, which was really good too.
There was an onboard entertainment system that showed a pants film starring Richard Gere and Winona Ryder, and an episode of Friends (The one where Joey finds a Porshe) and Robbie the Reindeer that was shown last Christmas I think on the BBC. Audio came through the headphones that plugged into my armrest, and there was a choice of BA radiostations including a comedy one that had lots of interesting jokes about aircraft cabin crew.
I could also listen to the audio of the other films that were being played to first class passengers who each had access to their own screens where they could chose which film they wanted to watch. I couldn't figure out what they were.
After a couple more cups of coffee I was handed an immigration form with lots of questions on it. D... had supplied me with the correct answers so I had a head start. On leaving the plane there was an announcement, "Could Paul Magowi and Aaron Rowe Please make themselves known to the officials at the door of the plane, on their way out."
So when I came out of the plane I said to a guy standing there "My name was just read out..." And he said "You're Paul Magowi!" He started talking into his radio in a very bizarre cross between English and something else. I tried to stop him and explain I wasn't Paul Magowi I was Aaron Rowe. Eventually he understood and walked off to find somebody who knew. He walked down the corridor/ramp thing and at the corner he found a bearded man holding a card with my name on it. His name was N... and I didn't know it yet but he was actually in charge of all the communications in the Airport and knew everybody there. He took me through Immigration at light speed. In fact I'm a bit worried I might have been smuggled in, but I have official stamps in my passport, that prove I spoke to people in Immigration.
ImmigrationAt this time I had a quick introduction to the environmental conditions I could expect. It really felt like I was in a steam sauna with my clothes on. Everybody was sweating and fanning themselves with their passports. I think I fully understand why they call Nigeria the armpit of Africa.
I was taken to collect my suitcase but I was standing around for 40 minutes waiting for it to appear, When it did N... grabbed it for me and insisted on carrying it for me. He took me outside to look for D... but he wasn't there. "He might be upstairs" said N... So I was taken up a flight of stairs that looked like they'd been bombed a few times, and into the departure lounge. Hundreds of Nigerians swarming around queuing for a flight to "Anywhere But Here" and I nearly lost N... as he moved very quickly through the crowd. I caught up to him and followed him into a small room where D... was waiting for me. He introduced me to some of the other Airport officials and another guy one of N...'s staff took my suitcase from N... and we were off to find the driver.
Journey across LagosIt was dark by now. D... found the driver who was called J1... and he took us to where he'd parked the car. And so began my introduction to Nigerian traffic laws. Well it would have been if Nigeria had any traffic laws that anybody obeyed. It seems to me, that you just drive in the direction you need to go in and weave in and out of any traffic that gets in your way, If you need to pull out in front of someone, forcing them to brake hard, you beep your horn as you do it, just to let them know. This happens every 15 seconds or so. It's insane. We were on the Main dual carriageway between central Lagos and Victoria Island where we are based, and I saw at least two cars on our side of the road driving toward us. In the fast lane. Not that there are any sensible road markings to show the lanes.
The HouseWe arrived at the House that is the official residence of ........., and met some of the other staff, S... & W... who are doing mapping of Lagos and linking that to a database, so that you can click on a building on the map and know everything you'd need to know about it. As there is no official street Map of Lagos, this could be a very handy sideline, since this would be possibly the most accurate map of anywhere in Nigeria,
Also there was a guy called E... and his wife K1..., and there's J2..., who's the secretary to K2... who's in charge of the whole operation in Nigeria but is currently in Canada sorting out a deal to take on the Nigerian side of .......... as a new company, outside ........... The company in Canada has just been bought by ........... another Canadian company and they don't want anything to do with Nigeria.
Also there's M... a Brit who I had spoken to via email, and I met V... the resident chef and M... the lady who does all the cleaning. We ate a fantastic chicken dish that V... had prepared, Far better than that aeroplane food that I thought was pretty good.
The Apartment 1After the Food we grabbed another Diver called J3... who took us to our apartment. D... has been responsible for the procurement and furnishing of this apartment and he casually tells me it's cost N1,500,000 to rent for the year and He's going to spend another N1,500,000 furnishing it. We arrived and unfortunately there was no electric, they have severe problems here, electric is cut off 7 or 8 times a day and usually for about 30 minutes. Apparently it is even worse than usual because one of the generators that NEPA (Nigeria Electric Power Authority) uses to produce the feeble Lagos Electricity supply is broken down and they need a new one. The government has tried throwing money at the Electric problem and the people at NEPA reasoned this way, "They gave us lots of cash because we are not producing enough electricity, so if we were to produce even less electricity then they will send us more cash" so the problem remains.
Apparently there is an independent electricity supplier waiting in the wings to take over once the political red tape has been sorted out.
The BarSo anyway, D... didn't want to hang around waiting for the electric to come back on in this boiling hot apartment so he asked J3... to take us to a bar called planet 44 while we were in there J3... was sent to acquire 2 torches with batteries. This is a bar owned by a lebanese bloke and mainly white people were drinking there, I had to have a drink called Original Sin. It was a drink containing six spirits, Vodka, Rum, Tequila, Cointreau, Gin and Sambuca. There was a little coke in there too I think just for colouring.
After this we went back out to the Driver and asked him to take us to see if the Power was back on at the apartment, it wasn't. So D... asked J3... to take us to another bar. This one was called the Outside Inn and again seemed to be populated mainly by white drinkers.
The Apartment 2We finally left the bar after a very embarrassing confrontation I'd rather not remember, and headed back to the apartment armed with two new torches, they cost about 3 pounds I think. Surprise awaited us because NEPA was back! I could now see this apartment. It's HUGE! we could fit the downstairs of my house in Bristol into my bedroom. My Bed itself is big enough to sleep three or four people, a bit worrying considering my earlier initiation into some local Culture. There's a huge living area with eight armchairs, a table to sit eight people, a huge telly and video, and a giant rug with original African artwork on it.
I settled down for the night enjoying the bliss of AC in my room, and fell asleep. I was awakened about 1am when NEPA switched us off and It suddenly got very warm...
Labels: Lagos, MyFirstTrip, Nigeria, travel